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| Khao Lak | |
| guide to | |
| national parks | |
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| Khao Sok | |
| national park | |
| and lake | |
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This is one of Thailand's most impressive experiences, whether you are a nature lover or not. The Khao Sok National Park is located in Ban Ta Khun and the Phanom district of neighbouring Surat Thani province.
The whole park covers 645 sq km. It is actually the heart of a complex of five contiguous conservation sites that comprise the largest protected forest on the Thai-Malaysian peninsula, covering over 4,000 sq km.
The other sites are Sri Phang-Nga National Park, Khlong Panam National Park, Khlong Saen and Khlong Nakha.
The park is very spectacular with dripping thick native verdant rainforest, punctuated by towering outcrops of limestone cliffs or karsts, waterfalls and sparkling streams, an island studded lake, several caves, and many trails, mostly along rivers.
A beautiful large reservoir was created by the construction of the Cheow Lan Dam (also known as the Ratchaprapha Dam) across the Paseang river; this Cheow Lan Lake occupies some 165 sq km.
The vast area of water is actually retained by several small dams and the surrounding rock formations are overgrown with lush jungle.
Limestone outcrops protruding from the lake can reach heights of 960m, which is three times the height of similar famous formations in Ao Phang-Nga.
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The Park has a plethora of wildlife - leopard, Malaysian sun bear, Malaysian tapir, serow, wild Asian elephant, wild pig, numerous primates (dusky langurs, pig-tailed macaques, white-handed gibbons), and (literally) maybe half a dozen tigers.
In total there are 48 mammal species.
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There are also approximately 38 species of bats roosting in the Park's many caves, such as the Tham Khang Dao bat cave.
The 180 bird species include eagles (such as the Lesser Fish-eagle and Wallace's hawk Eagle), hawks (such as the Bat hawk), and several species of hornbills, kingfishers and woodpeckers.
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The Park is also filled with bamboo, lianas, ferns, palms (such as the rare Kerriodoxa elegans which only grows at Khao Sok and Ko Phuket), rattan (including the giant rattan with 10 cm diameter stems), and last but not least
the wild lotus (the largest flower in the world, reaching 80 cm in diameter).
The wild lotus (bua phut , also known as the Giant Rafflesia) is only found in Khao Sok and a nearby Park.
Variations however do exist in Malaysia and Indonesia, and the species was originally discovered by Sir Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, and his companion Dr. Joseph Arnold (ref. the variety rafflesia arnoldi ).
Not only is it the largest flower in the world, it is also the heaviest weighing up to 7 kg.
It is parasitic living as microscopic filaments in the roots of the liana jungle vine; it has no roots or green leaves; occasionally buds the size of footballs erupt, from October to December, and then bloom
in January producing a tremendous stench, comparable to rotting flesh, which at least the carrion flies seem to enjoy and so effect pollination.
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Since the Park is located in the central mountain ridge twixt the east and west coats of peninsula Thailand, it receives quite a bit of rainfall from May to October as it is subject to monsoon rain from both the Gulf of Thailand and the Andaman Sea.
The dry season is early November to April. Whilst the dry season has it's merits, you are more likely to see some of the larger mammals (civets, black bear, slow loris, boar, wild elephant and, if extremely lucky, tigers) along the trail system during the wet season.
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Directions :-
From Khao Lak proceed northerly on route No 4, some 35 km to Takua Pa, then, shortly thereafter, east on route 401 towards Surat Thani. The park HQ is 50 km from Takua Pa (at distance marker 109 km; the markers decrease in the direction Takua Pa - Surat Thani). Public buses (some with air-con) serve the HQ. The dam is a further 60 km east.
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Activities :-
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| - | forest walks and nature trails. |
| - | viewing wildlife, fauna and flora, rare and endangered species. |
| - | leisurely elephant trekking.
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| - | canoeing and tubing on meandering river through the jungle. |
| - | visit waterfalls; various trails lead to them. |
| | Mae Yai - 4km towards Takua Pa on main road
Than Kloy - 9km from HQ
Than Sawan - 9km from HQ
Wing Hin - 3km from HQ
Sip-Et Chan - 4km from HQ
Bang Le-Ap Nam - 4km from HQ
Bang Hua Raet - 3km from HQ
Wang Yaow - 3km from HQ |
| | Tham Kang Dao cave (bat cave)
Tham Nam Thalu cave
Tham Si Ru cave |
| - | one or two operators offer a small night safari. | | - | Lake tours by longtail boat. |
| | The early morning mist is very tranquil & spectacular.
Dusk tours reveal the swarming bats.
Swim in the cool clear freshwater lake. |
| - | visit Pantoorat mountain |
| | named after a giant in Thai mythology.
She died at Khao Sok of a broken heart when her adopted son ran away.
The mountain outline resembles the position of a body laid to rest for funeral rites. |
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Facilities :-
Near the Park HQ there are camping and bungalow facilites. Also there are a few private sector tour and bungalow (mini resort) operations, some of which feature sturdy cottages on stilts and also tree-house style accomodation.
There is a visitor centre with an exibition and self-guided maps and trails. Park Rangers lead jungle tours and rafting trips. Guided hikes can be arranged offering river-running, and visits to waterfalls and caves. The private
sector will also offer a guide to accompany you.
The Lake is some 60 km east of the Park HQ; turn left after distance marker 53 on route 401, then proceed a further 14km north west to substation No. 2. There are floating raft houses, with fairly good toilet and shower facilities, near the Dam at substation No. 3.
And smaller raft houses, with communal facilities outside, are available at substation No. 4. Park Rangers offer one or two day tours of the Lake with overnight stay. Boats can be chartered (including those from local fishermen) to explore the caves, coves, wildlife and canels along the lake shoreline.
Tour operators, and the resort hotels, in Khao Lak offer various tour itineries for one to four days, or even longer for really serious adventures.
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* Caution - regarding some of the caves - during very heavy rain *
Please observe the warning signs about entering some of the caves during heavy downpours especially in
the rainy season.
Flash floods can occur, resulting in a torrent of water entering the caves and leaving people trapped.
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To make reservations for the Khao Sok park's bungalows and/or Cheow Lan Lake rafthouses contact the Khao Sok Park HQ directly.
Bookings can also be made at the Royal Forest Department in Bangkok at +66 2 579 7223, +66 2 579 5734, +66 2 561 4292-3.
Also contact TAT (Tourist Authority of Thailand) Region 5 at +66 77 288818-9 for more details on a complete list of accommodation at Khao Sok.
Also refer to the DNP website: Department of National Parks
There are also several tour companies which can arrange reservations, bookings and tours.
There are three main raft house sites ( Nang Prai, Ton Toey, Krai Sorn ) on the lake with varying standards of location, age, condition and facilities.
The basic concept is that the huts are about 3 meters by 3.5 meters in size. They are very basic but include bedding, bed sheet,
pillows and mosquito net. The roof is thatched. Usually there is a bamboo floating walkway to the toilets and shower rooms on the lake bank.
Electricity is typically provided by a diesel engine from 6 to 10 pm, after which time guests have to use oil lamps provided by the station.
There will be a restaurant serving Thai and some western foods.
It is also possible to simply turn up at the dam and hire a boat for around B1800–2000.
On overnight trips to the lake, accommodation is either in tents in the jungle or at raft houses on the lake. There are both
private (eg. Sai Schon rafthouses, Jungle rafthouses) and national park raft houses moored at various scenic spots around the lake shore, mostly around an hour's boat ride from the dam.
All raft house huts are rudimentary bamboo structures with nets and mattresses, offering fabulous lake views from your pillow.
If you've arranged your own boat transport, you can fix accommodation at any of the lake's raft houses for B500 per person
including three meals. Part of the appeal of a night in a raft house is the dawn safari the next morning, when you have a good
chance of seeing langurs, macaques and gibbons on the lakeshore; some tours include this option, or you can usually borrow a
kayak from your accommodation and paddle around the shore yourself.
Tours generally combine a trip on the lake with a wade through the nearby flooded cave system and a night on a floating
raft house. The lake is 65km from Khao Sok's accommodation area, and can only be explored by longtail boat tour, arranged
either from Khao Sok or from Ratchabrapa Dam.
For many people, the highlight of their lake excursion is the adventurous three-hour trek to and through the 800-metre-long
horseshoe-shaped Nam Talu cave, a five-minute boat ride from the national park raft houses of Ton Toey, or about an hour's boat ride from the dam.
The trek is not for everyone, however, as the cave section entails an hour-long wade
through the river that hollowed out this tunnel: it is slippery underfoot and pitch black and there will be at
least one 20-metre section where you have to swim. When the river level is high there will be longer swims. Use extreme caution in the rainy season,
due to higher water levels and stronger currents. There are signs warning against entry during rain. Wear shoes with decent grip and request (or take) your own torch.
Park staff have recently installed alarms and a rainwater meter that will warn visitors of any danger from a flash flood.
Ton Toey can also be reached by hiking 13 kilometers
from the kilometer marker 99 on highway 401. Tourists must hike with a local guide.
What to bring with you:
- include sturdy non-slip shoes, trekking shoes, comfortable clothes, outdoor gear in general, spare clothes, even some form of a plastic raincoat.
- insect repellent, mosquito protection, sun protection. You may also encounter the odd leech.
- bathing suit, towel
- camera in a waterproof bag
- (waterproof) torch, spare torch, spare batteries
- note that mobile phone signals are very poor in the area.
- the guides carry a first aid kit and are trained to know how to use it.
Fly and sport fishing is also available at Cheon Lan lake. The fish popluation include:
Big Toman (Giant Snakehead) Featherback, Rohu and Hampala Barb.
The spawning season for the Thai Mahseer and the Hampala Barb is from May to October.
The Thai Mahseer and Hampala Barb migrate from Cheow Lan Lake to the smaller streams and rivers to go upstream for spawning.
The best time to go fly fishing for these fish is at the end of October.
This is also one of the few places to see Giant Mekong Catfish in the wild in Thailand.
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Khlong Phanom National Park
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This Park is just across the road (route 401 ) from Khao Sok park, and the main HQ entrance is at kilometer 90 marker.
It covers an area of about 450 square kilometers.
The forest is the habitat of a variety of animals including elephants, deers, tapirs, bears, serows, wild pigs, gibbons, monkeys, langurs, squirrels, mouse deers, red jungle fowls, etc. as well as variety of birds and reptiles.
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Klong Panom National Park has the same dramatic limestone architecture found at Khao Sok.
There is very little publicity or development at this park, and thus the park could offer interesting adventures for real explorers.
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